Are you and your Adhesive Besties?

This Blog is exactly that - a guide. To help you see through the overwhelm that can be the "Facebook Chat Groups".
As we all know that when you ask a simple Adhesive question you get everyone's opinion.
It can be super confusing and overwhelming - Especially when you are stressed already about your clients retention.

I am here to help you in any way I can - So please reach out if you have any other questions at support@rebelgold.com.au and either myself (Kristy) or one of our other ladies will help you out.
We Got you xx

Kristy


The struggles of Clients with Poor / Bad retention; hit every Lash Artist once or twice in their career.
And this is the stuff that gives you nightmares. That gut wrenching thought that your amazing work has not lasted to its full potential.
This Can make some Lash Artist's cave in under pressure. But a Wise person once said to me - "It's all about the Science".

In this Blog you will be able to determine the common factors of "Retention Issue" with your clients. And Start putting them into place straight away to ensure that your clients keep coming back with amazing retention.

Questions to ask yourself about your Eyelash Extension Application.
Before you Blame Client Retention issues on You or Your Client.

Preparation Questions:
Have your prepped the Client correctly i.e: removed all eye makeup? Cleansed with oil Free Cleanser ?
Have you Rinsed well?
Have you used a primer; before application of Lashes?

Adhesive:
How long has your adhesive been open for?
Has your adhesive been stored in the correct conditions? Are you creating the correct environment for application ?
Are you replacing your adhesive every 15-20min to ensure that fresh Adhesive is used throughout your service?

Environment & Humidity:
Is your environment in your Lash Space controlled?
Does your humidity & Temperature suit the Manufactures recommendations for the adhesive that you are using?
Are you using an Adhesive that is too fast for you? Is your Humidity too high or too low?
Client Questions:
What is your clients lifestyle Like? Do they go to the gym every day? Do the go swimming every day? Do they horse ride everyday?
Do they regularly use eye drops?
Are they on specific medication that can effect Eyelash Extensions? Have they recently washed their hair & let the conditioner water run over their face??
Does your Client rub, pull or pick at their lashes? Do they wear excessive Eye make Up?
Are they cleansing their lashes?
Are they wearing Strip lashes on top of the Extensions?


PREPARATION
The are a lot of factors that can affect a Clients Retention. However lets start at the beginning:
If you want to start guaranteeing your Work - one of the best ways to do that is create an environment that is beneficial for your Eyelash Extensions Application.

When a Client comes in to our Salon; regardless of whether they have make up on or not - I ALWAYS Cleanse their Eyelashes.
Note: Make sure you let your client know that this is a step that you do for everyone.
This means that we know that I have done the right thing for their Eyelash Extensions.

Ensure that you use an oil free Cleanser. We use Prolong as it is specifically made for Eyelash Extensions & it smells amazing!

After cleansing - I make sure that the Clients Lashes are rinsed thoroughly. Then I pat dry with a tissue to remove any excess moisture.
Do Not Fan Dry as this will reduce all of the moisture on the lashes.
Note: Lashes that are Too Dry will not solve any retention issues.

After Applying Eye Pads I pop some Rebel Gold Primer on the base of the lashes. This helps remove any additional proteins or oils left behind.
Then I start the Eyelash Extension Application.
Just on this process alone - you will find that your clients retention will increase.

ADHESIVE
First question that I ask everyone who asks advice about retention is :
When did you open the glue that you are currently using?
If the answer is more than 4-6 weeks - You need to replace that ASAP! Fresh glue can be the holy grail when it come to retention. But that can go hand in hand with a lot of other factors.
Make sure that you are storing your glue in an controlled environment aware from fluids. In a air tight container with some silica bags or rice work well (psst: a Child's Food Thermos from Kmart $6-9 works a dream And its cheaper- winning )

Has your glue been shaken thoroughly before the service?
If it is coming out of the bottle as watery and not dark black; Give it another shake for at least 1-2min.
During the Eyelash Application are you replacing your glue every 15 min to ensure that it is fresh throughout the service.
When you place the dot on your glue palette make sure the first dot is disposed of - as this is "Old glue" and you will find that it is best not to use it.
Also make sure that you glue nozzle is free of bulit up old glue - this is not beneficial to the new glue that is in your bottle.

If you find that when you are lashing the extensions are falling off as you brush them - the glue that you are using is drying too quickly before it gets to attach to the natural lash. This is telling you that you may need a slower glue.
Alternatively if you find that you are getting a lot of Lashes sticking together or clumping together - you make need a faster glue. You could also increase the humidity in the room - this will speed up your glue.
If you are wiping the lash before applying it to the natural lash - you may be wiping too much glue off. See if you can check how much or how little glue you are using and modify your process so you have more glue on the extensions.


ENVIRONMENT
"  Your Lashing Bubble  "
Are you Lashing in an environment that can be controlled ?

The second question that I ask, when people have retention issues is - do you have a Hygrometer?
A Hygrometer is something that is a MUST for Lashing spaces/rooms. It can tell you the temperature & the humidity of your space. This will make sure 100% that your Lashing environment is suitable for your Glue / Adhesive. When I Lash - I place my hygrometer directly on my Lash pillow - so I know 110% that my "Lashing Bubble" is the perfect environment for the adhesive which in turn reflects the retention that my clients have.
Depending on your Brand of Adhesive you will need to check with the manufacturers of the glue to ensure that you are using it in the correct conditions. Every Glue / Adhesive is different.
If you find that your humidity is too low there are a couple of things you can do to increase your humidity.
Boil a Kettle while it is open
(not an ideal option if your client wants the sleep zzz) Purchase a Humidifier
Soak 2 cotton make up rounds in water; squeeze out the excess and put them under the eyes on top of the eye pads. Use a Nano - Mister during the service.

If you find that your humidity is too high there are a couple of options you can use to solve this issue:
Have an Air Conditioning unit installed to your Lash Room / Space. However there is a risk of cooling down your space too much and therefore your glue will not cure fast enough. As Temperature also plays a part in your adhesive.
Purchasing a Dehumidifier would be another solution - they are quite pricey - but if you find that this is a common problem for you - it may be well worth the $$

THE    CLIENT
In our line of work - the client is very important. As if it wasn't for them "We would not have a Business"

Try to understand that as much as we can apply the Eyelash Extensions in the correct environment; the client may not look after them the way that they should.
In saying that ; educating your client and explaining to them what can cause poor retention is the best practice. As this will let them know that some of the things that they might be doing is not the correct way.

The Clients environment is something that you can discuss with them: Such as their daily beauty routine, medications or Eye Drops can cause eyelash extensions to not adhere correctly.
Simple things like : Applying moisturizer to your hands and then by habit, touching your lashes. Things like this can cause the glue to breakdown.

Wearing mascara or eyeliner on the bottom lashes and not being made aware by your technician that the mascara can actually transfer from the bottom lashes to the top lashes - this can reduce the retention time; as we all know that most mascara's contains oil. Best option for the client would be to tint the bottom lashes rather that use mascara.
It is our job to explain this to them - and educate them in ways to alleviate the issue.

Explaining to your client that it is ok to wash their lashes is something that I have to do regularly. They are very afraid that they will ruin them. Again Educate them on how to wash them correctly.

Sometimes the client may have hobbies that interfere with their retention
- Such as Horse Ladies or Ladies that use tonnes of Spray tan before specific events; such as body builders or balroom dancers. It pays just to educate the client - Try not to point the finger and say : It's all your fault. Just subtley highlight to them that maybe their lifestyle choices might not be helpfull to their Eyelash Extensions.


TROUBLE SHOOTING

EYELASH EXTENSION NOT STICKING TO THE NATURAL LASH?

And the Extensions are falling out when I brush them during a Set?

• Old / Expired Glue (Been open for too long)
• The Natural Lash has make up or oil based product on it.
• Did you wipe too much glue off before applying it to the Natural Lash Is there not enough glue on the Extension
• Client is on medication
• Are the Natural Lashes too dry: ( stop over using a fan after cleansing) Was the Glue taken from a fridge and using it without allowing it to get to room temp?
• Excessive shaking of the glue with the cap on will cause it to have excess air bubbles mixed in with the glue.
• Glue not shaken enough.
• Glue curing too fast - check your environment & remove the humidity as it is too high.
• Get a slower curing glue
• Air being blown directly onto the glue plate.
• Change the place where you put your glue dot and try alternative methods - such as a glue ring or jade stone.
• Work Faster
  
  

LASHES ARE CLUMPING TOGETHER DURING A SET ?

• The main reason for this is that the Glue you are using is too slow. Get yourself a faster curing glue
• Keep the lash isolated a little longer to ensure that the glue cures before moving on.
• Your room temperature is too hot
• Try increasing your humidity in your Lashing bubble. See page 6 on environment

GLUE NOT CURING ?

• Glue has not been shaken / mixed enough Old / Expired Glue (Been open for too long)
  
  • Your room temperature is too hot or too cold.
• Your humidity in your Lashing bubble is wayyy too low. See page 6 on environment

GLUE GETS STRINGY TOO QUICK ?

• Your Glue dot has not been replaced quickly enough (Every 15 min) Air blowing onto the glue dot
• Your Room Temperature is too hot?
• Chemical in the air are combining with the glue - Ammonia is not friend with Adhesive. etc Hairdressing Salons.

SUMMARY

At The end of the day - Our Client is our Best Asset and if you Educate them correctly in Aftercare and what not to do with their Eyelash Extensions - they will have amazing retention. And therefore continue to come to you to get their eyelash extensions from you.
And remember that if they love you & their lashes - they will always come back.

With every Full Set that leave our Salon - We make sure that they leave with an Aftercare Pack that contains everything that they need to keep those lashes looking amazing. And a detailed Aftercare card that very clearly outlines to them what they can & cannot.
Some of them use it other just don't ; but again we just need to educate them. In a polite, kind & giving way.

Make sure you go through this booklet and check the specific items that we have highlighted ; and that may fix your clients retention issues.

But please also remember; that there are clients will that refuse to be educated and still have poor retention and they will Blame you. Stay strong within yourself - go through the troubleshooting & see if you can find the issue - Especially if they are the only client that is having the issue - and your other clients are retaining their lashes?

Finally if you ever need any other information regarding Lashing or Business - please just drop me a line at support@rebelgold.com.au and either myself or one of our other lovley ladies will be able to assist you.

Happy Lashing xx

Kristy

www.rebelgold.com.au